Digging in

Art Smith to host TLC show on comfort food

2009-11-23T16:29:23Z

In his turn on Bravo's Top Chef Masters, Art Smith proved he's more than comfortable in front of the camera. He emerged the darling of the set, never afraid to shed a few tears or share a few hugs.

Now comes word the effusive chef and owner of Table Fifty-Two in the Gold Coast is getting his own show on TLC -- and the topic is one that seems to fit Smith like a glove.

"Craving Comfort" will explore the "obsessions, triumphs and secrets behind some of America's favorite comfort foods," according to a release. The show, slated to debut late next year, has Smith traveling across the country seeking out renditions, and stories, of apple pie, fried chicken and more.

TLC couldn't have picked a better host. Smith, ~~who's on the road now~~ who just returned from a week of shooting, tells us the show came about exactly because of his Top Chef Masters performance. "Honey, it wasn't about winning, it was about being memorable," he says.

And now we have an excuse to run one of our favorite recipes in recent memory: Smith's goat cheese biscuits. These are a snap to put together, and they're homey, crusty and delicious. Comfort, indeed.

Update: A TLC rep tells us the foods to be covered in the series are apple pie, donuts, chocolate, burgers, fried chicken, mac 'n' cheese and breakfast grub. And the crew is planning a Chicago stop. Mmmm.

A bit more:
"I said I wouldn't be able to go back home if we didn't have [a Chicago stop]," Smith says.

"It all happened so strangely," Smith says. In July, he was in Los Angeles to see his newborn godson and got a call from TLC, asking if he could drop by their offices to say hello. "It was literally 'We just wanted to meet you, we liked you on 'Top Chef Masters.' "

A month passed, and then Smith got another call from TLC, this time with a formal offer for a show.

Smith hopes to develop the show so that it features not only mom-and-pop restaurants dishing up comfort food classics, but also home cooks. "To me, food without a story is not that interesting," he says. "I wanted to search out stuff that wasn't overly produced but also that, when I taste it, it's like, 'Wow.' "

Ironically, though the show is all about grub that can do damage to the waistline, Smith says he's shed nearly 70 pounds in about three months -- doing sensible things like taking a walk after a big meal -- due to concerns about his elevated blood sugar level.

"Chefs are notorious for not taking care of themselves and eating properly," he says."The secret to a healthier life is taking care of yourself. You've got responsible drinking. Well, honey, you've got responsible eating."

Restaurant resolutions

2009-11-23T00:52:41Z

Holiday shopping season is upon us once again, and with it come the magazine stories, window signs, Facebook buttons and individual resolutions carrying the "shop local," banner. It's a noble idea -- to support our local merchants, the ones who give us nice Christmas decorations and put a festive feeling in the air, as well as contribute to the local economy -- instead of doing all our shopping online.

It's certainly something that I am going to try to do as much as I can in the next month or so, but similarly, I have made resolved to "go local" when it comes to food, making the effort when I can to patronize locally-owned restaurants or food stores.

This goes hand-in-hand with another resolution to break out of my "restaurant rut," and try to dine somewhere new more often, as opposed to falling back onto the same two or three restaurants that I regularly visit.

What got me to making this resolution was the untimely demise of one restaurant and the opening of a new cafe, separated by only a few blocks in the Edgewater/Uptown neighborhood. When I noticed a pizza place/bar named Monticchio on Clark Street just north of Lawrence, next to Lincoln Towing, I was surprised that a restaurant would open in such a seemingly inhospitable location -- that stretch of Clark is most notable for the aforementioned towing pirates, a couple garages and a cemetery across the street -- and I made a mental note of the place. I walked or drove past it many times after that, thought it looked cheery and as if time and attention to deal had been paid to the interior and the menu and thought, "I'll have to go there sometime."

"Sometime" never came. Monticchio closed not long ago.

]]> More recently, though, I've seen new signage in the old Monticchio space, for a place called Ceres' Table. This intrigued me, since Ceres was the Roman goddess of grain (I knew that three years of high school Latin would come in helpful some day!), whose likeness graces the top of the Board of Trade building downtown. According to the restaurant's Web site, which, like the spot itself, is "coming soon," Ceres' Table is run by Sicilian-born Chef Giuseppe Scurato, formerly of Topaz Cafe, Boka and the Landmark Grille & Lounge.

I have resolved to visit Ceres' Table, at least a few times.

Only a couple blocks north of the Ceres space is very exciting space (leather sofas and exposed brick excite me, really) that will soon be the home to a new cafe, Winston's. It's on the northeast corner of Clark and Argyle, across from Sofo, in the former Clark's on Clark space. The city has issued food and beverage and "retail computer" (i.e., for an Internet cafe) licenses for Winston's and from peeking in the windows, things appear to be taking shape quite nicely. It's got a nice bar, which apparently will be serving coffee drinks instead of booze (and snacks, since I've seen sandwich/cake cases as well), and the rest of the space has that upscale, soft-loft feel, with leather sofas, coffee tables and plenty of smaller tables for you and your laptop. The space, while unfinished as of Sunday morning, reminded me a little of Andersonville's Coffee Studio, also on Clark, about a mile north of Winston's. While Winston's is a little far from home to be my neighborhood coffee spot, I can't wait to go there, since it seems like it could be a great space.

And while I just do not get the whole cupcake madness, you have got to admire anyone who works to open a cupcake cafe in Uptown, so I plan to visit The Cupcake Gallery, at 1319 W. Wilson, as well. I figure since it is a three-mile roundtrip walk from my front door, I can justify an Uptown cupcake treat every so often.

Like a resolution to shop local, I know it's extremely tough to eat local all the time. I don't believe Starbucks is evil -- I like their coffee, as well as their ubiquity (sometimes I just really need a cup of coffee or an espresso quickly and they do that extremely well), and I appreciate that they've brought coffee culture to the masses. But there are other times when I'd like a nice latte or cafe au lait in a more relaxed setting, and one in which the person behind the counter may very well be the person whose name in on the business license. It's easy to get a sandwich or burrito from the national chain down the street, but it also sometimes make you kind of anonymous. Taking just a little effort to say, get a sandwich at the locally-owned shop a few doors down from the chain store may be more satisfying to you as a customer, may make our neighborhoods seem more like communities and may even make us less anonymous to one another. And you may even discover some surprising food and drinks which could become your new favorites.

Libby's shortage? Don't panic -- seek out squash of different stripes

2009-11-20T16:11:07Z

Bummer for Nestle, which produces the iconic Libby's canned pumpkin, the go-to squash for millions of pie makers this time of year.

The company says heavy rains have forced it to cease harvesting its crop in Downstate Morton -- which may lead to a shortage during the holiday season of those recognizable orange cans.

But relax, people. You can still bake your pumpkin pie and eat it, too. A pumpkin is a gourd -- as are those oodles of beautiful winter squash with the poetic names (Kabocha, Hubbard, Delicata) crowding the store bins these days.

In my freezer, I have a Ziploc bag full of the cooked flesh of a red Kabocha squash. I bought the squash in early October from farmer Vicki Westerhoff (below) at Green City Market, for our story on farmers' favorite Thanksgiving recipes. Westerhoff is a something of a squash expert -- she grows between 11 and 18 varieties of winter squash on her St. Anne farm -- and her recipe for custard-filled squash is delightful.

In my first attempt at Westerhoff's recipe, however, forces out of my control prevented me from keeping a close eye on the squash -- or, more accurately, the clock -- as it baked (long story; just know it involved my two daughters). The beautiful, majestic squash collapsed on me in the heat, the filling spilling out across the baking sheet. Dang.

But it still tasted delicious, so I scooped all the flesh from the skin anyway, collecting it in a bag and popping it into the freezer. And next week, I'll be making pie with it.

Westerhoff says the three best substitutes for the canned stuff are the Blue Hubbard, Long Island Cheese and Butternut squash (though she assures me my red Kabocha also will work well).

"I would dare say other than a super pumpkin connoisseur, no one would know the difference," she says. "In fact, I think they work better than pumpkin in a lot of ways. The texture is smoother and the flavor is just really good."

So wherever you would have used canned pumpkin, try substituting a squash of a different stripe. It won't be the same old pie you're used to, but I don't think you'll be disappointed, either.

Josephine "Mama" Minelli, 1910-2009

2009-11-19T15:53:19Z

By guest blogger and local freelancer Leah A. Zeldes

Our condolences go out to the family of Josephine Minelli and to generations of Chicago-area Italian-food lovers. The matriarch of the Minelli Meat and Deli family, fondly known as "Mama Minelli," died Tuesday at age 99. By all accounts, she lived a life as robust as her marinara.

Until an ambulance took her away from the stove two years ago, Mrs. Minelli was still making meatballs at the family store -- up to 200 pounds at a time, all by hand. The shop, at 7900 N. Milwaukee, Niles, is the third in a series of food stores she and her late husband, Philip, first opened in 1957.

The first Minelli store stood on the corner of Western Avenue and Lexington Street in the Little Italy neighborhood on Chicago's West Side, dispensing Italian groceries, 10-cent beers and shots. In 1970, Mrs. Minelli and her three sons -- Lenny, John and Alfred -- expanded to a full-service Centrella grocery and Italian specialty market in Niles, and began making prepared foods, beginning with Mrs. Minelli's meatballs, which she insisted should be made by hand.

Thirty-seven years later, Mrs. Minelli presided over the grand opening of the newest location, a deli and butcher shop in Oak Mill Mall, where her grandsons Mario Minelli, Lenny Minnelli Jr. and Ozzie Caccavella continue to offer the locally celebrated meatballs as well as house-made Italian beef, sausage, salads and other foods prepared from Mama Minelli's recipes.

Born in Montefalco, Italy, near Naples, Mrs. Minelli immigrated to Chicago in the 1920s, where she met her husband and reared her family on Taylor Street. Before opening the grocery store, she worked at the Ferrara Pan Candy Co. and the National Biscuit Co.

Though she spent the last two years in a nursing home, St. Matthew Center for Health in Park Ridge, Mrs. Minelli daily entertained large groups of visitors and continued to take a lively interest in the family store.

Visitation for Mrs. Minelli will be held from 2 to 9 p.m. Sunday at Skaja Funeral Home, 7812 N. Milwaukee, Niles. Funeral services begin at 9 a.m. Monday at Skaja, followed by Mass at St. Isaac Jogues, 8149 W. Golf , Niles, and interment at Queen of Heaven Catholic Cemetery & Mausoleums, 1400 S. Wolf, Hillside.

We give thanks to Shelley Young, our Thanksgiving guru

2009-11-18T16:04:21Z

It's almost Thanksgiving. For us, that means once again drawing on the expertise of the Chopping Block's Shelley Young.

This is the third year Young has graciously agreed to be the subject of our Thanksgiving video how-tos. The first year, we asked her to show us how to carve a turkey. Last year, it was how to make gravy. And this year, she whizzes us through pie crust. You can check out all the videos here.

There are two reasons why Young's business -- which started in a charming cottage on Webster Avenue in Lincoln Park and has since mushroomed into a grand space in the Merchandise Mart and a Lincoln Square location -- has been around for 12 years. She knows her stuff. And her stuff works.

Sun-Times editor in chief Don Hayner told me he watched and learned from the turkey carving video; he and I both carve our turkeys this way, now.

Young's gravy relies on a simple, easy-to-remember ratio. And her pie crust recipe, she says, is foolproof. Foolproof is a tall order. But watch the video, and then try it yourself - especially if you have a food processor, you're going to be giddy at how ridiculously easy it really is, this crust thing.

So for next Thanksgiving... Shelley, you know the drill.

(And for another take on Thanksgiving duties, here's Anthony Bourdain, another person we love, but for different reasons.)

Home on the range: a dual bison discovery and cholesterol check

2009-11-18T04:56:37Z

A chat with my best friend in Kansas happened to coincide with a doctor's revelation that my husband's cholesterol needs to be nudged back into a safe place. Naturally, I headed to the store.

Enough with the bacon and the Sunday steak, I thought. Except that the husband would sooner starve than eat something as mockable as, say, chicken chili, no matter who made it.

That brought me back to thinking about a visit to my Kansas friend's home last year. Ruhe had made a simple dinner in her slow cooker for us -- a chili-baked beans hybrid made with ground bison, homemade biscuits on the side. It was so tasty. It was so Kansas.

Bison, she told me, is the meat of choice in her home. It's markedly lower in fat and cholesterol than beef, chicken or pork. And of course, this being Kansas, bison is widely available in most grocery stores there. Where was I this whole time?

Bison has everything going for it. Why isn't it easier to come by in Chicago? At Whole Foods, fresh ground bison is $7.99 a pound.

Fortunately, Ruhe's recipe is hard to mess up and open to all sorts of interpretation. And the husband? He ate it up.

Roughly:
Brown 1 pound of ground bison (with 1 chopped onion, if you like). Add 1 can each drained black beans, butter beans, kidney beans and lima beans (or any combination thereof). Stir in 1 cup ketchup, 1/2 to 1 cup brown sugar (1 cup verges on one-dimensionally sweet) and a pinch of salt. If you have a slow cooker, let it do its thing; if not, cook in a Dutch oven in a 225-degree oven, stirring occasionally, for a few hours until it smells and tastes good.

Note: Ruhe sometimes subs KC Masterpiece barbecue sauce for the ketchup and brown sugar; other times, she adds curry and peas, a nod to her British-Pakistani heritage.

If only everyone were as gosh darn nice as farmers

2009-11-13T21:39:15Z

Putting together this week's story on four Illinois farmers and their favorite Thanksgiving recipes ranks up there as one of my favorites. Vicki Westerhoff, David Cleverdon, Tracey Vowell and Marty Travis -- they are some good eggs, and with fascinating back stories to boot.

They were all gracious enough to share their recipes during what is typically for them a busy, busy time -- and if you don't try Travis' cornbread recipe, you're missing out.

Speaking of, I missed a few resources for local food during the winter months in our listing, but the Local Beet, of course, has me covered.

Here, after the jump, are two more recipes from Cleverdon we didn't have space for in the section that make clever use of squash and greens. The rolls, his great-grandmother's recipe, have been in Cleverdon's family since the late 19th-century.

]]> Polenta with Italian Greens
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1 pound Italian greens (cavolo nero or spigariello), cleaned, stemmed and coarsely shopped
4 garlic cloves
Sea salt
Olive oil
1 cup polenta (Cleverdon uses Bob's Red Mill brand)
2 fresh bay leaves
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons butter
Red pepper flakes

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt. Add greens and garlic cloves. Boil for 3 to 4 minutes until greens are slightly softened and bright-green. Drain in a colander.

Fish out the garlic cloves, transfer them to the bowl of a food processor, and pulse until coarsely chopped. When the greens are cool enough to handle, squeeze out excess water. Transfer greens to food processor, sprinkle with salt and process with the garlic until very smooth, about 3 minutes.

Bring 4 cups of salted water to a boil in a medium pot. Slowly whisk in polenta. Reduce the heat, add the bay leaves and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until polenta thickens and begins to pull away from the sides of the pot, about 45 minutes. If the mixture gets too lumpy, use a whisk to smooth it out. If it gets too thick, add more water as needed to maintain a creamy texture.

When the polenta is cooked, stir in the pureed greens and garlic and cook for another 6 to 8 minutes, until thoroughly heated. Stir in Parmesan and butter. Add salt and pepper and red pepper flakes to taste.

Left-over Polenta?
While polenta is still warm, spread it onto an oiled bakesheet, ¾- to 1-inch thick. Let stand overnight. Cut into rectangles, brush with butter, place on a sheet pan and roast in a 300-degree oven for 30 minutes or until crispy.

Kinnikinnick Squash Rolls
MAKES ABOUT 18 ROLLS
1 cup Winter Squash (Blue Hubbard or Buttercup; Butternut will do in a pinch)
1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup sugar
Couple pinches of salt
1 cup scalded milk
½ yeast cake
About 2 1/2 cups flour (this will vary depending on density of squash)

Add squash, butter, sugar and salt to milk. When milk is lukewarm, add dissolved yeast.
Using a stand mixer, add enough flour to get a stiff dough. Cover and let rise overnight.
The next morning, punch down dough and shape into walnut-sized balls.

Put balls on greased pan and let them rise until at least double in size.
Bake in a 375-degree oven for 20 minutes or until golden brown.

In the Beard House kitchen with Sunda's Rodelio Aglibot

2009-11-09T20:04:31Z

By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes

On Friday, Rodelio Aglibot abandoned Sunda, 110 W. Illinois Street (leaving it in the hands of a more than able crew) and took over the kitchen of the James Beard House, 167 W. 12th in New York City.

Aglibot's fantastic, the menu looked phenomenal, and I wanted in - not in the dining room, but the kitchen.

As is his way, Aglibot did the unexpected: He said yes.

That was Wednesday. This is three o'clock on Friday afternoon, and I find myself in a compact kitchen with an impressive array of chefs: Aglbot; James Gottwald, executive chef of Rockit Bar & Grill and corporate chef of Rockit Ranch Productions; Jesse Deguzman, Sunda's sushi chef, and chef Frank Fronda (below, right). Volunteers from the French Culinary Institute are putting in hours, as well.

Gottwald and Deguzman look like undergraduate students, but the kitchen buzzes with professionalism - and camaraderie. Aglibot, Gottwald and Deguzman are a three-man Chicago team. Fronda and Aglibot travelled around Asia together, and they co-own Baba's Pasta, an artisanal pasta company.

This isn't a tight-knit group; it's a strong, effective sailor's knot - one flexible enough to add a writer to its curves.

]]>
In a kitchen this small, order is a necessity. Plates are stacked in neat readiness, a numbered piece of paper atop each pile indicating which course it will bear. In other areas, food seethes, awaits chopping, chills, or is divided into portions. Aglibot's in and out, giving directions, streamlining production, nudging, tasting, keeping people working and making them laugh.

Aglibot talks about the importance of love in food, but laughter is a key ingredient in his kitchen. It makes sense. A miserable crew isn't going to prepare happy dishes.

Guests enter through the kitchen, stopping to gawp happily, admire what they're going to eat and take photographs of Aglibot. Gottwald's wife pauses to flirt with her husband. They were married only six days ago. They joke about this being their honeymoon and thank Aglibot for the lunch he spotted them at the Four Seasons on East 52nd.

Each person has a specific task: plate this, drizzle that, garnish with the other thing. Hands fly in speedy coordination. Silence falls, save for the occasional, "Add more of this," or, "Keep the plates moving."

The hors d'ouvres are served with a choice of Sunda's pear sake of Champagne Krug Grand Cuvée NV - not that this matters in the kitchen, where temperatures and speed are rising.

Bluefin tuna belly with pan-seared sushi rice, scallions and wasabi tobiko is a wealth of contrasts: cool fish, warmly crisp-topped rice, and a blend of freshly grated wasabi and flying fish roe. Poached shrimp in a Sunda's addictive egg sauce blister brightly as Gottwald takes a torch to them. Beef curls around lemongrass to form savory lollipops.

Once they're out, a bottle of Champagne is produced, and Aglibot toasts his team. He tells them to remember that nobody does this alone, that they should always appreciate their crews.

A few minutes later, the Champagne glasses are gone and the fires are high again. I barely get a glimpse of the roasted duck hash on daikon cakes. Served with crispy duck skin and egg yolk tartare, they are whisked away almost as fast as they're compiled. The counters are wiped down and plates neatly arranged on the clean space. They slide along the counter: grilled pork belly meets seared big-eye tuna, garlic vinaigrette, pickled radishes and sweet chile sauce, and servers' hands claim them.

Sushi is prettily laid out: escolar nigiri with potato chips and shaved truffles, miso-marinated black cod nigiri with pickled ginger and lobster maki with Wagyu beef tataki and truffled foie gras aioli. Its elegant array belies the organized chaos that saw it prepped and plated. I have tasted this chaos, and I'm buzzing, every bit as much as the chefs and culinary students.

Somewhere in the sweep, Deguzman had reminded me that I wanted to be put to work, and he'd handed me a bottle and instructions: drizzle this over that. I don't know what time it is, but I do know I'm not going to sleep tonight.

The palate cleanser is pretty: pale green avocado mousse with frozen lychee compote is adorned with perfect raspberries. Aglibot's nature is to think "avocado" and "sweet"; he grew up eating it as a fruit.

A quick clean, and the kitchen's ready for the next course: ginger-braised Midwest long ribs with lobster-scented arroz caldo. I think of arroz caldo as Filipino congee - comfort food. This rich stuff is comfortable luxury.

Finally, we're at the end, back in the Philippines with chocolate rice pudding. Served with preserved coconut, toasted coconut flakes and shards of pork, this is a spin on a traditional Filipino breakfast. It's a long way from a bowl of cornflakes or a poached egg.

As the dishes leave the kichen, the culinary students and I eye them jealously.
Opened bottles of wine appear on a counter. Champagne is poured and Aglibot toasts the evening and his crew. He also says that every leftover should be eaten or taken home by the kitchen and house staff. Food should not go to waste. Nothing does.

It is a sensible ending to a profligate meal and a night of hard work. It's also typical Aglibot: enjoy life to the full, but stay grounded, be both great and grateful and always - always - keep it real.

It'll end in tears

2009-11-08T13:02:55Z

Last week I read, in the Sun-Times Showcase section, that celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, star of the shows, "Hell's Kitchen," "The f Word," and "Kitchen Nightmares," has signed a deal for a new show on Fox, tentatively titled "Master Chef."

In it, Ramsay will attempt to take people who have no experience in the food industry into expert cooks. The contestants will whip up dishes that will then be judged by a panel of expert chefs. Are they kidding? Really? I'm sure that Fox will have no trouble finding people to take part in this because people will do anything to get on TV, but what sort of masochistic person, with no professional kitchen experience, would ever subject themselves to the foul-mouthed, short-tempered Ramsay? It's one thing for Ramsay to shout and swear at professionals who can't run a restaurant or cook food worth putting in front of a paying guest but I don't see how his act will work on those who haven't worked in kitchens before. Restaurants, like bars, are among the best places in the world to work, but much like newsrooms, the folks who work in these places are quite a different breed. Everyday behavior in working restaurants (like newsrooms) might get you fired from just about any other workplace, with the exception of perhaps a pirate ship.

I predict lots of tears, some people storming out of the kitchen, some on-camera asides from the contestants remarking about how mean Ramsay is, and maybe a few people who will swear and scream back at him. Fox may as well call it, "So You Think You Can Cook?" The carnage could be horrible. And I can't wait to tune in.

Don Roth's Blackhawk to close after four decades

2009-11-03T03:38:07Z

The news was announced via email this afternoon: After 40 years, Don Roth's Blackhawk in Wheeling, is closing.

The surf-and-turf restaurant of Spinning Salad Bowl fame will serve its last meal on New Year's Eve.

"With my 90th birthday on the horizon and none of my children in a position to assume responsibility for the family business, it will be better to close Don's last restaurant while it still is a going concern," said Ann Roth, Don Roth's widow, in a statement.

Dough! 'Pizza Boy' wins bet to eat pizza for an entire month

2009-11-02T20:04:55Z

Could you eat sausage pizza -- and only sausage pizza -- for an entire month?

Craig "Pizza Boy" Scharoff (pictured) could -- or rather, did.

Scharoff entered into a bet with his co-worker, Ron Kaplan, back in September, that he would eat sausage pizza for every meal during the month of October. It was one of those "If you could eat one thing for the rest of your life... " discussions that just took on a life of its own, Kaplan says. "After talking about it for so long, I decided to challenge Craig and everyone here egged him on ... At first, I never thought he could do it but when he ordered that Dominos very early on, I knew I was in trouble."

Kaplan laid out the specifics: sauce and other fillings optional; no pizza variations (e.g. French bread pizza, pizza-flavored Hot Pockets); no salads, side dishes or dessert, and so forth.

Kaplan, conveniently, is one of the moderators of the food chat site, LTHForum, where this whole thing has played out for the past several weeks, with photographic evidence posted by Kaplan of much of Scharoff's intake.

The payoff for all of Scharoff's effort? $2,000.

The twist: Around lunchtime today, Kaplan announced that he and Scharoff have donated the cash to the Northern Illinois Food Bank. And Kaplan is now dusting off an old treadmill to give to Scharoff.

DIY candy bars not such a tricky endeavor

2009-10-28T14:30:04Z

If you're not already sick of Halloween candy -- make that, if you're sick of that waxy, pedestrian, drugstore stuff filled with stabilizers and subpar ingredients -- check out today's story and recipes from Anita Chu's Field Guide to Candy. Better yet, check out the book.

I've been toting around the pocket-sized guide for weeks now like my 4-year-old does her nubby, floppy bear. There were only so many recipes I needed to test for the sake of the story, but now that that's in the can (and I'm off my sugar high), I can scratch my itch for Chu's version of Almond Joys, one of the world's greatest candy bars.

Chow's take on the DIY Halloween candy story, meanwhile, also tackles the Almond Joy as well as the three other big guns in the candy world: Twix, Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and Snickers. At a glance, Chu's recipe appears more doable. But then, Chow gets points for its printable wrappers and super cool cross-sections of the chocolate bars (which reminds us of how much we love looking at cross-sections of food).

Happy homemade Halloween.

Breakfast queen Ina Pinkney angling for white glove treatment at White House

2009-10-28T02:44:08Z

The inimitable Ina Pinkney of Ina's, 1235 W. Randolph, is one of three chefs up for a Golden Bowl Award from the culinary organization Women Chefs and Restaurateurs. The award, to be presented in Washington D.C. this weekend, recognizes excellence in baking and pastry arts.

While the nomination alone makes her giddy, here's what really tickles Pinkney: She and 20 fellow female chefs will get a tour of the White House kitchen Sunday from White House commander-in-chef Cris Comerford, she says.

"I'm going to call David Axelrod," Pinkney says. "He was a regular here [at her restaurant, Ina's], as was Rahm Emanuel and Valeria Jarrett. So I'm going to see if David's working and see if I can get a glimpse of the West Wing!"

She says this with a laugh, but she's serious. And don't think she doesn't have pull.

In 2007, the Wall Street Journal named her West Loop restaurant one of the nation's top power breakfast spots. Pinkney says that's because she never feeds the press tidbits on her powerful dining guests and because "it's very, very quiet and the tables are far apart. The deals get done."

Daley eats there. Gloria Steinem and Jane Fonda have eaten there. Judy Baar Topinka just announced her candidacy for state comptroller there Sunday, with a photo in our paper to boot. ("Republicans don't tip as well, but they're still welcome here," Pinkney had to explain to a Democratic friend who groused about this to her.)

Some of you also may remember that Pinkney ran for mayor in 2007.

Ok, so she kind of did it cheekily at the suggestion of a regular customer, after Jesse Jackson Jr. and Luis Gutierrez dropped out. In her monthly newsletter mailed out to customers in December of that year, she offered up a list of city departments she would create if elected (our favorite: the Dept. of Snacks and Morale).

It was after a call from one alderman, a visit from another and a call from Daley's chief of staff that she realized, "they had no sense of humor whatsoever" -- and formally threw her toque in the ring as a write-in candidate.

Pinkney got 2,302 votes. "And three unannounced inspections from the city that day."

"Even now, it makes me laugh," she says.

You know, Ina, 2011 is coming up fast.

Oh, she knows. "And I keep saying, 'You never know,' " she says.

"Top Chef" for sweet tooths

2009-10-26T16:34:29Z

It was bound to happen: Bravo is launching the pastry chef edition of Top Chef!

Auditions for "Top Chef: Just Desserts" are getting underway nationwide this week, with a casting call today in Chicago that runs until 2 p.m. at Wells on Wells, 1617 N. Wells. Producers there also are auditioning for the seventh season of the original "Top Chef" series (which has chefs from at least one uber-high profile Chicago restaurant licking their chops.)

All this on the heels of Bravo's announcement to bring "Top Chef Masters" back for a second season.

We are loving the idea of Top Chef, the dessert edition. Desserts are a universal weakness for most Top Chef contestants. We can only imagine what wacky challenges the Bravo execs have in store for the pastry chef-testants but something tells us it isn't going to be a .... cake walk.

Coming soon: Top Chef Masters, Season Two

2009-10-22T21:05:57Z

Those of you who couldn't get enough of "Top Chef Masters" can rejoice: Bravo is bringing it back for a second season.

Not surprising, considering the series snagged the highest rating for first season shows for Bravo (also, Rick Bayless, who can forever lay claim to being the first Top Chef Master, told us back in August after the series finale that the chefs for season two had already been lined up.)

Of course, "Masters" was made all the more exciting because of Bayless' big victory. And let's not forget the delightful appearances of Graham Elliot Bowles and Art Smith, who made it to the final six.

Host Kelly Choi will return as will judges Gael Greene, James Oseland and Jay Rayner. They'll be joined by "Top Chef" judge Gail Simmons.