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August 2009 Archives

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Sad news to start off the week: Sheila Lukins, author of the seminal Silver Palate cookbook, died Sunday of brain cancer.

We had the pleasure of sitting down with the delightfully quirky Lukins back in late November. She was on tour promoting her book, "Ten: All the Foods We Love and 10 Recipes for Each."

The New Yorker, who with her writing and business partner Julee Rosso eased American home cooks into a world of raspberry vinegar, pesto and other then-esoteric ingredients via the pages of the Silver Palate Cookbook, gushed about visiting the Green City Market earlier that day and produce that "would have knocked your socks off." She talked about how frozen peas are a godsend, and that "people were yelling at me because I didn't have a cookie section [in Ten]."

Chances are, you have the Silver Palate on your shelf. Hang on to it. If you don't, at least hang on to the following recipe. Chicken Marbella is a Silver Palate classic, not to mention damn tasty. Thank you, Sheila.

Recipe after the jump.

By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes

NEW ORLEANS -- The anniversary of Hurricane Katrina has been all over the news of late, and the people of New Orleans are remembering - even more keenly than usual - that disaster and its aftermath.

The gulf city has always made the most of what was available, and has never held with waste. Chefs were swift to return to New Orleans after Katrina; they saw it as vital to put food - good local food - back on the table. After all, there are few finer communities than those that gather to share meals.

Thinking of bringing NoLa north, I turned to Lyle Allen, executive director of Chicago's Green City Market, to turn New Orleans recipes into feasts that celebrate both New Orleans' culture and Chicago's fabulous food supply.

The chefs of New Orleans aren't big on postponing pleasure. Nobody gives a more ebullient expression of that attitude than chef Kevin Belton of Li'l Dizzy's, 1500 Esplanade Ave. in New Orleans.

In that chef's world, food and life are made for enjoying. If there's an ingredient you don't like, substitute something else. Not too keen on spice? Tone it down. Don't like that sausage? Use another. Make the food the way you like it, and make enough to share, from starters to sweets.

Belton's bread pudding is a reason to save room for dessert. It's as far from the "slabs of stale bread soaked in custard" standard as a New Orleans summer is from a Chicago winter - although it's far easier to take than either extreme.

Instead of being cut into slices, the bread is crumbled. The small pieces meld and become carriers for whatever flavors you want to add.

Belton's a big believer in tradition and creativity. Before handing over the recipe, he draws a pencil line halfway down. From the line up (from bread through vanilla), the ingredients are mandatory. After that, it is cook's choice. Belton grins as he lists some of the things he's used in making bread pudding: chocolate, fruit, nuts, spices - and broken-up chunks of pie.

When in NoLa, follow Belton's lead and use Hubig's Pies. They come in twelve flavors; choose the one that fits your mood.

Bring it closer to home with a trip to the Green City Market to get a Hoosier Mama Pie. "Paula Haney [pictured] makes fabulous pies," Allen says. "She's renowned for her apple pie." That may be true, but Allen especially likes Haney's chess pie, an old-school vinegar pie. Enjoy the pie fresh, and crumble the leftovers (if there are any) into bread pudding. 9-11-07_sweda_pie_7.jpg

As to the mandatory ingredients, Nordic Creamery just brought butter to the Market. Allen says it's worth a trip just to buy that butter, and their cheese is "just tremendous". It would be good on that apple pie - the part that doesn't make it into the pudding.

Buy the best and use it all. A true son of his city, Belton would approve.

Recipe after the jump.

Trotter about town

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Heads-up if you're eating at Salpicon tonight: You'll be seeing uber-chef Charlie Trotter there.

And though you may not recognize his entourage, you should know who they are: Spain's Juan Mari Arzak, who once was mentor to Ferran Adria, if that gives you any idea of his stature; and two of New York's It chefs, Daniel Humm of the four-star Eleven Madison Park and Paul Liebrandt of Corton.

Trotter and Arzak also plan to hit Gibson's Monday. "All these European chefs are fascinated with the idea of a steakhouse," Trotter says. "They don't have them in Europe, where you go and just get this big piece of meat."

The chefs are in town to help Trotter mark his restaurant's 22nd anniversary with a $495-a-head blowout Sunday. (Trotter has perfected the art of drawing in some of the culinary world's hugest names like bees to honey. His 20th bash featured the jaw-dropping roster of Adria, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Tetsuya Wakuda, Heston Blumenthal and Pierre Herme.)

This year, a non-chef also will be in the kitchen -- honest-to-goodness Ohio farmer Lee Jones of the Chef's Garden, which supplies produce to many of the nation's top restaurants.

Trotter asked Jones to come up with a dish for the evening. Jones' contribution (which Trotter's chefs will execute): a "tiny roasted heirloom tomato with the elements of a BLT inside."

Chicago restaurants are going to get a whole lot greener -- and it's going to be easy for diners to spot them, too.

That's the hope behind a new initiative of the Green Chicago Restaurant Co-Op, a sustainable food buying co-op started two years ago by restaurateurs Dan Rosenthal (Trattoria No. 10, Sopprafina MarketCafe) and Ina Pinkney (Ina's).

GCRC-GuaranteedGreen-logo.jpgIn the Guaranteed Green program, launched this morning, restaurants that attain green certification by either the Green Restaurant Association or Green Seal will be given a label that they can display as prominently as they would, say, their Zagat review.

The co-op also has partnered with the city to list the green-designated eateries on the city's tourism Web site.

"So many people are having so much difficulty determining what's green and what's not," Rosenthal says. "You've heard the term 'green fatigue.' We wanted to put a stake in the ground and really clarify for Chicago's dining community what a green restaurant should be."

Certification through either of the two independent, national groups isn't an easy, or quick, process. It can take a good half a year and cost a few thousand dollars for a restaurant that makes less than $1 million annually to get certified. Restaurants have to meet criteria in areas such as water efficiency, building materials, cleaning supplies and pollution reduction. And, Rosenthal adds, "The programs are all designed to be ongoing. Certification lasts one year."

But what about the little guys who don't want to, or aren't financially able to, go through the process, yet are truly sustainable operations that fit the "green" definition -- much like small farmers who bypass the costly organic certification process but are, at their core, organic?

"Eventually, their voice won't be as loudly heard as those that do go through the program," Rosenthal says.

Twenty-five area food businesses -- Bleeding Heart Bakery, Blue Plate Catering, Keefer's and Uncommon Ground, among them -- have so far signed up to get certified. In fact, the Dining Room at Kendall College already passed certification and will get its Guaranteed Green label "as soon as our printer finishes it," Rosenthal says.

The Alinea experience continues to stretch beyond the walls of 1723 N. Halsted.

Now this: a chance to buy the knock-your-socks-off wines that you tasted at the restaurant but wouldn't have been able to find on your own.

Dubbed Alinea: Oenophilia, it's a wine subscription service that the restaurant promises will deliver "insider wines selected by [wine director] Joe [Catterson] and his expert team," from "beloved standbys to newly discovered prizes, from the classic to the most esoteric" and, eventually, "some of the more exclusive and collectible wines available to us."

Of course, it'll cost you. The "tasting" subscription -- 24 bottles a year -- costs $1,400. The "tour" -- 40 bottles a year -- is $3,300.

The battle is on: Vie chef and canning/preserving champ Paul Virant and his sous chef Nathan Sears will go head to head with Japanese master, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, on the Food Network's "Iron Chef America." The episode airs Nov. 1. No word yet on whether pickled, Nichols Farm sugar snap peas will make an appearance, but one can hope.

Molcajete with the mostest

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One more tidibt that didn't make it into today's follow-up on "Top Chef Masters" champion Rick Bayless:

You might have caught a glimpse of a fading Chicago Bulls emblem on the outside of Bayless' jumbo molcajete, the Mexican bowl used for grinding spices and making guacamole.

So what's the story with that?

"Back when the Bulls were the leading team in the NBA, they were so popular among Mexican-Americans here in Chicago," Bayless said. "And one of the grocery stores here [Jimenez Foods and Carniceria] commissioned someone in Mexico to do a special molcajete with the Bulls logo. It's my favorite thing. I've had it forever."

If you were salivating over Rick Bayless' four-course meal that catapulted him to victory on last night's finale of "Top Chef Masters," listen up: It is now being offered -- plus one course, a peach tart to end -- at his restaurant, Topolobampo, for $90.

You'll get to taste the black mole that took the chef 20 years to perfect, as well as arroz a la timbada, the seafood, chorizo and black rice stew that was his only weak spot on the show due mostly to overcooked seafood.

The tasting menu will only be around for four weeks through the third week of October, however -- so if you already have a reservation, consider yourself extremely lucky. (And, well, the first available table for a Friday or Saturday night is in November, a reservationist told us.)

About that fourth course flub (if you can call it a flub), Bayless says he and his chef de cuisine, Brian Enyart, "both felt really bad."

"There was more wrong with that dish than just the seafood being overcooked," he says. "Brian came in and although I was very relieved to have an extra set of hands, I felt like at that I point, I knew how to play the game. I knew where everything was in the kitchen. Brian came in and he didn't realize how fast time flies ... He threw me out of my groove some."

Regardless, what's on the menu now at Topolo is the dish perfected, Bayless promises.

Last night, Bayless had closed the bar for a viewing party of about 100 of his friends and family, and when they announced he'd won, it was too loud to him to hear a thing. So, this morning, he watched the entire show again -- and was brought to tears.

"I didn't remember having said all that stuff at the end about my dad, and I found myself sitting there, sobbing," he said. "He was a barbecue pitmaster. He died when I was 20. And all of a sudden, I'm seeing pictures of me with him right before he died."

Bayless said it also was jarring to see how much of the "hard parts" were edited out.

"They don't show you all of that, when you need a pan and it's dirty and it's you scrubbing it. It's intense work and it was really hot in that kitchen," he says.

A longtime yoga practitioner, Bayless credits his calm, collected manner throughout the show partly to early morning meditative yoga. He says he would get up 45 minutes early on the days they were shooting to do "very simple yoga stuff, yin yoga."

But, he said, it is also not in his nature to get too ruffled. "The more stressed out I get, the calmer I get. When everything starts to fall apart, if you as the leader just stay real calm, then everyone on your team will be calm."

The 55-year-old chef said he'd dropped 10 pounds lighter by the end of the whole experience.

No rest for the weary. The opening of Bayless' newest takeout venture, Xoco, is headed for a Sept. 1 (or thereabouts).

Chicago's master of Mexican cuisine has a new title: Top Chef Master.

Rick Bayless, chef and owner of the perpetually booked Frontera Grill/Topolobampo restaurants, played to his strengths to outlast smarmy Californian Michael Chiarello and classy Frenchman Hubert Keller on Wednesday's finale of "Top Chef Masters" on Bravo.

"Viva Mexico," Bayless gamely told the camera after his win.

How about Viva Chicago?

The chefs' final challenge was to make a four-course meal that traced the history of their careers.

Except for Bayless' final course, the judges tasted his dishes after his competitors' -- and gushed. And gushed. While his fourth course -- a seafood and chorizo stew -- suffered from overcooked shellfish, the black mole in his second course was deemed "phenomenal." The judges couldn't stop talking about it.

The show was a more genteel spin-off of Bravo's popular "Top Chef" series. While the original pits up-and-coming chefs against each other (the new season of "Top Chef" also debuted last night), the "Masters" version featured 24 of the nation's most celebrated chefs, including Wylie Dufresne of New York's wd-50, Hawaii's Roy Yamaguchi and fellow Chicagoans Graham Elliot Bowles and Art Smith.

Another difference: The master chefs played for charity.

Bayless' win nets him a $100,000 check for his charity, Frontera Farmer Foundation, which supports small, sustainable Midwestern farms.

Mark your calendars: Da Mare has declared Sept. 22 to be "Chef Carrie Nahabedian Day in Chicago."

This via a press release this morning about Nahabedian's induction into the Chicago Culinary Museum Chefs Hall of Fame, which will take place that evening at a fundraising gala at the Union League Club. (Not all of the previous inductees -- Bannos, Bayless-- got their own day but, "We could have dropped the ball on that," admits museum secretary Carmella Anello.)

After four years, the Chicago Culinary Museum is still just a concept, not a place. The seed first was planted by two members of a Chicago chapter of the American Culinary Federation, a professional organization for chefs; one of them, John Castro, died earlier this year.

But Anello says the museum (what little of it there is, anyway -- "some artifacts, old utensils") is getting ready to move into its home at the Washburne Culinary Institute in October.

The hope, she says, is that the museum will get its own space where it can operate a café, offer programs for kids, put up exhibits of, say, what a 19th-century table setting looked like and more.

"We're going to be geared toward education for children and adults," she says.

"It's hard to get funding," Anello says, "but we're hanging in there."

And then there were three -- Rick Bayless, Hubert Keller and Michael Chiarello.

The money is on Chicago's boy Bayless to take it all in tonight's finale of Top Chef Masters. NUP_133881_0344.jpg

Bayless has been up to his glasses Twittering and blogging about the show. And what timing -- he is getting ready to open his new project, Xoco, a churros/tortas/chocolate joint on the southeast corner of Clark and Illinois. City inspectors were just there this week checking out the place, Bayless says.

About 80 people are expected to descend on Frontera Grill tonight for an invitation-only viewing party. Among them will be the winners of Bayless' clever haiku contest, staged via Twitter and his blog.

Read the winning haikus here. Even more entertaining: the losing ones (with the stray limerick thrown in - good luck, perhaps?)

Here's the No. 1 gem:

Cow walks into Bar
Says Nothing. Bartender asks,
What, Rick Got your tongue?

The episode airs at 9 tonight on Bravo.

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Food writer Ronni Lundy authored an entire book on tomatoes. She knows a thing or two about them.

In a delightful conversation with the New Mexico resident (but forever Southerner) about today's story on 50 ways to have your tomatoes, we got on the subject of not-quite-heirloom tomatoes.

See, as heirlooms have built up a following at farmers markets, Lundy says mass tomato producers have, not surprisingly, gotten into the game, watering down the definition of 'heirloom' that already is a bit jumbled.

(Generally, the term refers to the seeds of non-hybrid plants that have been passed down within families, ethnic groups or a specific region over a long period of time. Some say true heirlooms must have been grown for 50 years. Others say they must have been passed down within a single family).

"What's happening now," Lundy says, "is they're breeding things like Cherokee Purples with a more standard supermarket tomato to create an heirloom that has the color of an heirloom and a little more of the shape, but conforms more to supermarket tomato. Reproduction tomatoes, that's what we call them.

"And what's really distressing about it is you go to your farmers market and the guy there is selling incredible heirloom tomatoes for three dollars a pound, and then you go to the superstore, and you see the same brand, and it's got kind of the same colors but looks like it's got better shape, and it's only a buck a pound.

"The reason not to buy it is it's not the same tomato."

We know what she's talking about. We've seen tomatoes marked "heirloom" (though never bought them) at our neighborhood Dominick's. On the one hand, we were pleasantly surprised the first time we saw them. On the other hand, we knew it would feel bizarre buying them when we could just buy them at our farmers market a mile away and know exactly where our cash was going.

The other thing Lundy said that we can't get out of our heads: "An ugly tomato is actually a better tomato."

On another tomato note:

We offered 50 tomato tips -- a fun list to put together but by no means, the be-all, end-all. Chef Ina Pinkney gave us the following omelet recipe, but it was past our deadline and too late to include. She's excused, though -- she says she was just waiting until the good tomatoes came in to make this for breakfast the other day.

Got other favorite ways to eat tomatoes? Please share.

Pinkney's recipe after the jump.

By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes:

Chicago native Belinda Chang, now wine director of the Modern, 9 W. 53rd, in New York, knows what to sip in summer's swelter. Belinda Chang IMG_3761.jpg

When the weather is hot and sticky, Chang craves "acid, acid, acid" - something to bear in mind with clingy summer thunderstorms lurking in the region. She says you want "crisp, racy, bright and juicy in your glass. Anything that is naked and unmolested by oak is good. Anything unencumbered by high alcohol is good."

You're seeking cool wine, stripped and lean - white or red. "There are plenty of reds that have those adjectives - crisp, bright, racy, unoaked," Chang says, and mentions "Gamay grape Beaujolais with a little bit of chill."

Cold red wine?

That, Chang observes, is what Beaujolais Nouveau is for - "even the more serious Beaujolais, like Julienas ... They're refreshing, because they have great acidity." She recommends considering Pinot Noirs from California's Anderson Valley, New Zealand or Northern Italy - and broadening your varietal horizons. Grenache, Chang says, is great for Pinot Noir lovers.

Chang's summers are made for "thin-skinned grapes." Your lakeside picnic should feature delicate, sensitive wines in bottle green bikinis.

Preparing for a four-day getaway recently, I was faced with the prospect of having to clear out various vegetables and assorted perishables from my apartment before leaving, lest I have to face an assortment of foods gone bad on my return. For a couple days prior to my hitting the road, I wasn't exactly sure of what I was going to do with what I had, but I knew what it would be called: "Mustgo." As in "these things must go, and soon." It's a term I picked up from my late Uncle Phil Amato, a couple decades ago. While my mustgoes aren't quite as interesting as his -- sorry, no pig's feet in tomato sauce in my fridge -- they have yielded some combinations that did the job in clearing some fridge space and keeping some cash in my pocket for that trip. A lonely eggplant got diced and mixed in with pasta, zucchini and summer squash got grilled and served alongside a couple of those Costco salmon patties that reside in a corner of the freezer (which allowed me to empty the last of that bottle of capers, at least six months old, as well) and an orphaned Italian sausage got sliced and added to that paella mix in a box that had been in the pantry for too long.

Ruminating on the nature of "mustgoes" (not to mention looking for a snack in the fridge the night before the trip) made me think of another such term, which I have to admit I first heard of through the Blues Brothers, and that's a "Wish Sandwich." Whenever that phrase comes to mind, I can hear Dan Aykroyd saying, "You put two pieces of bread together ... and you wish you had some meat to it!"

I'm intrigued by terms like "mustgo," "wish sandwich" and a couple others I've found out about since, such as "air pies," "windy pudding," and "bread and pullit," all variations on the same theme, of beasically, eat what you've got and if you haven't anything to eat then you won't be eating. It may not do anything for your hunger, but somehow it makes it easier to deal with when you're told you'll be having air pies, as opposed to hearing there's nothing to eat.

If you've got any stories to share about expressions such as those mentioned here, share them with us. I'd be especially interested to hear where the expressions you're familiar with originated.

Soaking up the Big Easy

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By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes:

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Recently, a few New Orleans chefs invited me into their kitchens. I had expectations - good (New Orleans' food tastes fantastic) - and bad (everybody knows that food in NoLa features boatloads of fat).

And, as I couldn't stay in New Orleans forever, there was also the question of whether I could replicate any of the tastes and textures at home.


Watching Leah Chase run the kitchen of the renowned restaurant, Dooky Chase, 2301 Orleans Ave., I had to wonder whether the cuisine was healthier than its reputation. Chase is 86 years old. While she shares stove-space with her grandson (Edgar Chase, Cordon Bleu graduate and heir to the nickname "Dooky"), there's no doubt who's the boss in her kitchen.

I want to be that healthy in my 80s, and - being greedy - also want to enjoy my meals along the way. What's the reality behind New Orleans' cuisine?


As it turns out, food in the Big Easy is really about company. Chef Kevin Belton, of Li'l Dizzy's Café, 1500 Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans, says, "It doesn't matter what's on the table. It matters who's around the table."

Now, that was something anybody could bring home (without adding calories or taking luggage space). So is local pride. All of the chefs said that the reason they came back after Katrina was the city - its people and its culture. New Orleans' natives had an obligation, one based in love: keep their home and its ways alive. The way they see it, we should all support the places where we live.

People in New Orleans are proud of their city, their heritage and their food. This includes seasonings (spicy flavors brought in by the slaves) and regional produce. When chef Doris Finister, of Two Sisters Kitchen, 223 N. Derbigny St., makes gumbo, it wouldn't occur to her to use anything but Gulf shrimp. The local shrimp are dense and meaty, a world (and a gulf) away from the watery things most of us have eaten.

Every single chef assured me that substitutions were welcome in the pot. Allergic to shrimp? Use chicken. Have a local butcher you really like? Go to him for sausage. Is there a sale on local fish? Buy it. Is something fresh in the market? That's what you should choose.

Seasonal eating isn't a trend or a rage; it's an intrinsic part of New Orleans cooking. Cajun tomatoes, local blueberries, regional fish, okra ... If it's fresh, it's on the table.

When your stock is that good, you don't need to do much to it.

Chef John Besh (below) wasn't in town during my stay, but he gave the Sun-Times a galley proof of his new cookbook. My New Orleans: The Cookbook will be released in early October, and its author will be coming to Chicago on a book tour shortly thereafter.

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I'm glad to have it now. Lyle Allen, the executive director of the Green City Market, reminds me that blueberries are in season - and at the Market.

More New Orleans recipes (with Market tips) are yet to come, but kick off the weekend with indulgence, and feature dessert first. Besh's cookbook features a recipe for blueberry sorbet. Healthy and tasty, it has a maximum of 1/2 cup of sugar in 12 portions. Given the quality of the fruit at the Green City Market, I'm betting I can leave the sugar on the shelf.

Recipe after the jump.

This should be ... interesting. Next Wednesday, ABC News' "Nightline" will air an interview with outgoing New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni, who is hawking his autobiography, "Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater."

The "secret", in case you missed Bruni's piece in the NYT Sunday Magazine in July, is that the man had some disturbing food issues growing up -- bulimia, bingeing, laxatives, amphetamines. Though, in the magazine piece and in an excerpt from the interview, Bruni takes a light, almost humorous approach with the subject.

Of course, Bruni and ABC's John Berman also get into his job as the nation's most influential restaurant critic ("I don't walk in there with the desire to intimidate people. It kind of bums me out to hear that. I'm really just there, really to have a good time"), his pet peeves ("I hate that common phrase in a restaurant, you know, are you done working on that?) and more.

The interview airs at 10:35 p.m. Wednesday.

Recent circumstances (vacation in a Bravo-less locale, followed by a family emergency) have prevented us in the past few weeks from taking in our Wednesday evening Top Chef Masters episode.

Here's what you need to know:

Art Smith is out.

Anito Lo is out.

Rick Bayless -along with Hubert Keller and Michael Chiarello - are in.

And Dale Talde (past Top Chef cheftestant) appears to be a tool.

Bring your own ... chair?

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scooters_storefront.pngScooter's Frozen Custard is the type of business that any neighborhood, in any town, would love to have as part of their community. The Roscoe Village spot -- on Belmont between Ashland and Ravenswood -- draws neighborhood residents young and old, families, kids, dog owners and their pups. The tiny corner cafe creates the kind of scene that makes living in a congested, noisy city bearable. The owners are friendly and chat with customers, the employees -- who often have to deal with a line of customers at their walk-up window as well as a line going out the door -- are harried but always pleasant and offer service with a smile.

The owners believe that something like frozen custard, some with funny names such as "Chocolate Yum Yum" and "Coco Loco" can bring a little comfort and a smile to people even when folks are going through rough times.

Those frozen custards -- concretes, they call 'em -- are something else. They resemble soft-serve ice cream but the product is so much better than your typical ice cream, soft serve or regular. According to their Web site, "the process for making frozen custard is very labor intensive. The product is made fresh every day, from scratch, and that is part of reason it tastes so good. It is also the most dense of any ice cream variety on the market. Contrary to some urban myths, frozen custard is NOT extremely high in butterfat. In fact, Scooter's frozen custard is approximately 40 percent lower in butterfat that some of your favorite high end ice creams found at your local grocery store."

For the past six years, were you to visit Scooter's on a summer night (they're closed in winter) you'd find moms and dads, their little kids sitting on little chairs outside the Scooter's building, couples, single folks, older folks, and a few pups and their owners at the dog-friendly spot. The puppies would be drinking water out of the dishes Scooter's owners put outside for them, or they'd be eating custard from little cones from their owners, who would be sitting on some other chairs Scooter's had put out on the sidewalk up against the building or near the curb. There was even a garbage can that Scooter's put out there at their own expense, to keep the surrounding area clean. In all, a wonderful neighborhood spot and neighborly vibe in a city where such scenes are a little too uncommon.

But apparently that's not the sort of sight City Hall -- or the alderman's office -- wants as part of this city. That's because Scooter's has been ordered to take away the chairs, the water dishes and the garbage can. The city departments enforcing this order are Mayor Daley's office, Ald. Scott Waguespack's (32nd) office and the city Department of Business Affairs and Consumer Protection. Scooter's owners really don't have the money or resources to fight City Hall, so the chairs et al are gone, and a little bit of people trying to be good neighbors and cultivate a neighborly environment has been quashed.

About the blog

Janet Rausa Fuller

Sun-Times Food editor Janet Rausa Fuller is always thinking about her next meal.

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