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Eggs crack the mystery to great homemade ice cream

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Chef Carol Wallack, owner of Sola, and Executive Pastry Chef Toni Robers of C-House, saved one sleek, stainless steel ice cream maker from certain death. Or, at least from finding its way to the shelf of a Brown Elephant where another cook could take the hot little number home only to find that it churned out batch after batch of iced milk.

Turns out it's not the ice cream maker, but rather the "cold" recipes (each with the usual lineup of heavy cream, whole milk and flavorings) that came with the appliance are the problem. Wallack and Roberts explain that egg yolks -- part of a cooked custard -- make all the difference. They're right.

Chef Roberts' basic vanilla ice cream recipe is a great foray in to the world of making premium ice cream. The process adds maybe 15 to 20 minutes of cooking time. That's nothing. The final product is rich and creamy --- not icy -- and and the beautiful milky yellow color with specks of vanilla bean makes for a lovely summer treat. Too pretty, really to cover up with chocolate, caramel or other syrups. But consider raspberries or a seasonal fruit as a sidekick.

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About the blog

Janet Rausa Fuller

Sun-Times Food editor Janet Rausa Fuller is always thinking about her next meal.

Lisa Donovan

For almost 20 years now, reporter Lisa Donovan has been hitting Chicago's neighborhood markets and restaurants not only for the best grub at the best prices but also as a way to understand the city's melting pot.

James Scalzitti

As Rhoda Morgenstern would say, food is the first thing Sun-Times Wire Service reporter James Scalzitti remembers liking that liked him back..

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